The Hair Chart

Historical Context

The historical context of hair texture reveals its role in social hierarchy during slavery. Leila Day explains that thick, kinky hair was once a sign of health and wealth in Africa, but in America, it became a tool for division among enslaved people. "Light skin and straighter hair could mean more privileges, like working in the house and not in the field," she notes 1. This idea of "good hair" versus "bad hair" persisted post-slavery, with damaging practices like using hot combs and harsh chemicals to straighten hair 1.

   

Natural Hair Movement

The civil rights movement marked a shift towards embracing natural hair as a symbol of black pride. Leila Day recounts how her family members did the "big chop," cutting out relaxers to wear afros proudly 2. Former Black Panther Kathleen Cleaver emphasized this change, stating, "For so many, many years, we were told that only white people were beautiful... But this has changed because black people are aware, and white people are aware of it, too" 2. This era saw a decline in the chemical relaxer industry as products like Afro Sheen celebrated natural hair 2.

   

Jheri Curl Era

The Jheri curl emerged as a popular hairstyle, shifting away from the political statement of the Afro. Leila Day describes it as a "fun, easy-to-go style," despite its high maintenance 3. The style required daily application of activators, leading to greasy hair and stained pillows 3. "Jheri curls were the most product-heavy hairstyle that I think any people have ever known," she adds 3. This trend eventually faded, but it highlighted the ongoing evolution of black hair identity and the impact of cultural shifts on hair care practices.